The old heel top-lift is taken off and the surface of the leather heel block is rough sanded free of old glue.
The balance of the boot is checked and the heel block is sanded so that heel block and new rubber dovetail heel sit correctly
Sanding of the dovetail heel on the surface to be glued is done to guarantee a fresh surface.
The freshly sanded surface is cleaned with acetone and then glued. The surface of the dovetail heel block is glued and both are put aside to allow the glue to dry and to then check if both surfaces have good coverage of glue.
More glue is added, if required.
Both surfaces are left to dry and then heat activated.
With both surfaces heat activated they are then pressed together and set aside to cure.
Excess of the dovetail heel is cut off and then the whole heel block and dovetail heel is fine sanded.
Correct edge paint is applied to the heel block and heel.
Heel block and heel are polished
There is a huge difference in quality and wear when it comes to leathers. Baxter & Black uses Jon Rendenbach from Germany instead of local leathers like other shoe repairers. JR leathers are oak bark, pit tanned for six months. Local leather is vegetable tanned which doesn’t impart durability during the tanning process. This means the amount of tannage in JR leather is a lot more than regular leather. Therefore, the leather lasts around three times longer.
Additionally, to hold true to traditional methods and to fit our specific heritage machines, we have our own waxed right-twisted linen thread made to ensure the durability of the item. Other repairers use a standard PolyBraid thread. It looks different, it lays in the holes differently and it abraids quicker.