We remove and rebuild sole and heel, replace cork with spreadable cork, fit a leather sole, welt-stitch with linen, rebuild heel, hand-dye and polish, finishing with French brass nails detailing.
Fiddleback Sole & Heel Combo
$350.00
Description
The fiddleback sole and heel have long been admired for their balance of style and strength. Elegant without excess, they signal a shoe made with intent. The Gable exemplifies this approach, employing a construction technique known as fiddleback construction. It’s a detail you may not notice at first glance, but you feel it with every step.
A raised ridge of leather runs along the waist of the sole and continues beneath the heel block. This subtle “bump” is not decorative. It adds structure, reinforces the waist, and delivers increased support where it matters most. The result is a shoe that feels stable, refined, and built to last.
Leather choice is equally critical. Not all leather wears the same, and the difference becomes obvious over time. That’s why we use our house leather, specially tanned in Germany, rather than relying on standard local options. This leather undergoes an extended tanning process that prioritises durability, density, and long-term performance.
Unlike conventional vegetable-tanned leathers, which often prioritise speed over substance, our German-tanned leather absorbs a significantly higher level of tannage. The fibres are tighter. The structure is stronger. Consequently, the sole resists compression, moisture, and premature wear far better than ordinary alternatives.
In practical terms, this means a sole that lasts considerably longer and wears more evenly. It also means fewer compromises in comfort and appearance over time. Combined with fiddleback construction, our house leather delivers a sole and heel that age gracefully, support the foot properly, and uphold the standards of true craftsmanship.
This is footwear designed with restraint, purpose, and longevity in mind. Quietly confident. Properly made. Built to endure.
At a Glance
- High level of expertise
- Has to be done by hand
- Elevates the aesthetic of the recraft
- Made in Germany.
Our Method
- We remove the existing sole and heel block and rebuild both from the ground up.
- The old cork is replaced with spreadable cork to preserve the original footbed shape and comfort.
- A new leather sole is fitted to the shoe.
- The welt is re-stitched using waxed, right-twist linen thread. We avoid braided nylon, as it degrades faster and lacks refinement.
- The heel block is rebuilt layer by layer for strength and balance.
- The sole and heel are hand-dyed, and the waist is hand-polished to a high shine.
- Brass nails from a French foundry are set into the heel, providing durability and a refined finish.
