Vibram Mini Lug Sole and Chevron heel block on a pair of Role Club Shoes
Brian the Bootmakers shoes and boots are some of the most sought after items. We were very happy to have had worked on these shoes a couple of times. Previously, we had put in a new back counter for these shoes because of heel slip. We padded the back of the shoe and blind stitched a hard-wearing leather into the back of the heel. Finally, we even hand-stitched the Role Club logo onto the new leather as a small extra. Next up, was a Vintage shoe resole and restoration.
Our Process
- Built to last, Brian’s shoes also weigh a fair amount. For the Vintage shoe resole and restoration, the client decided to to go with a lighter sole. But what do you go with?
- After some consultation, we decided on the Vibram Mini Lug and Chevron heel block. The dark brown Nitrile sole and the brown cork core provided a great heritage link back to Brian’s work. Additionally, it fulfilled the lightweight requirement.
- It was a hand-welted shoe. Therefore, we cut through the welt stitches along the welt line and peeled off the layers of soling. There was a little space that needed filling with spreadable cork. However, that area was filled with a piece of belly leather.
- After unpicking all the top welt stitches and roughing the surface of the welt, we applied our first layer of glue.
- Whilst that dried, we roughly sanded the surface of the sole and then washed it down with acetone.
- After this, we applied a second layer of glue to the shoe underside, as well as the Mini lug sole, allowing each coat to dry.
- Additionally, we achieved a good edge bond by heat-activating both surfaces and pressing them together. We let them cure.
- Both brown cork core full heels were roughly sanded and glued onto the area to be bonded,
- The sole edge was trimmed and finely sanded. The brown core heel block was used to mark out on the Vibram Mini Lug sole where it was going to sit. The area was then roughed, nailed, and two layers of glue applied.
- Once all glue was dried, the brown cork core heel was fitted. Buttress nails were nailed down through the footbed (underneath the insole) into the brown cork core heel, thus securing it. Finally, we used Saphir Crème 1925 Shoe Polish.
